38 Hours in Sapporo
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38 Hours in Sapporo
Ben Shewry's guide to spending a jam-packed weekend in Hokkaido's capital city, Sapporo
Ben Shewry
Published 08.02.26
Sapporo Clock Tower
Thirty-eight hours might sound brief, but in Sapporo, it's just enough time to ski fresh powder, eat exceptional sushi, soak in an onsen, and discover why this northern city has become Japan's most underrated food destination.
A perfect piece of Sushi
There's something magnetic about Sapporo in winter. Maybe it's the way the city glows under a blanket of snow, or how the cold makes every bowl of ramen taste like a revelation. It's a city that knows how to eat, drink, and find warmth in the middle of winter.
We've just come back from some time in Hokkaido and discovered that 38 hours is the perfect sprint: long enough to fall in love, short enough to leave you planning your return. Here's how to make every hour count, from Saturday morning to Sunday night.
Granbell Susukino - Media Credit Granbell
Base Camp
Check into Granbell Susukino – it's right in the heart of the action, with an onsen upstairs that you'll appreciate after a day on the mountain or walking through snow-covered streets. The location is unbeatable; everything you need is within a ten-minute walk, and it’s incredible value.
Saturday
8am – Hit the Road
If you're here in winter and you don't ski or snowboard, you're missing half the story. Drive to Kiroro for some of the best powder in Japan. This is the kind of snow that makes you understand why people travel halfway around the world for this.
Stop at a Lawson convenience store on the way out. Grab breakfast, coffee, and anything else you might need. Our hot tip is a onigiri and an egg sando.
12pm – Early Ramen
Have ramen on the mountain. There is something about eating steaming noodles after a morning in the cold that feels essential. The food on the mountain in Japan is usually excellent, too.
3pm – Onsen
Drive back to Sapporo and head straight to the onsen at the Granbell Susikino. Your body will thank you. The Japanese have figured out that the best way to recover from physical exertion is to sit in very hot water and do absolutely nothing. They're right. Stare at the sky while you soak, and anticipate your night to come.
Burton Snowboard in the famous Hokkaido Powder
Saturday Evening
5pm – Tachigui Sushi Akira
Book for an early seating! This stand-up sushi bar is tiny and things run out. Also, in winter the sun sets just after 4pm, so you can check out the lights on the famous Sapporo tower as you walk to the restaurant. You eat at the counter, watching the chefs work, and can sample local sake that you can’t find in Australia. It's unpretentious, delicious, and exceptionally high quality. Order way more than you think you will eat. You will end up eating it all.
7pm – Walk It Off
Stroll through Odori Park if the weather allows, past the illuminated Sapporo Tower. Stop to admire the Nikka Whiskey sign in Susukino, one of those iconic neon landmarks that makes you feel like you're in a Haruki Murakami novel.
8pm – Shopping Break
Duck into Parco Department Store and check out Pokerface Glasses, among all the other amazing stores, on one of the upper floors. It's a ten-minute walk and a good way to digest before dinner number two.
9pm – Sapporo Genghis Khan Main Store
Yes, we said dinner number two. This is Genghis Khan, a Hokkaido-style grilled mutton, and it's a one of the dishes that is uniquely Hokkaido. The meat is tender, the atmosphere is buzzing, and by 9pm you'll have developed a second appetite. Order a beer when you sit down, start with one plate of sliced mutton and a kimchi rice, and embrace the smoke. There is a coat rack covered in plastic sheets to place your coats and scarves in, otherwise you'll smell like a barbecue for the rest of the night. There could be a lot worse things to smell like! Upon finishing your meal, use the plastic urns in front of you to add the hot liquid to your dipping sauce to make a lamby-broth, and slurp up before departing.
Shokupan with cheese and egg at Mermaid Coffee Roasters
Sunday
9am – Sleep In
After last night's double dinner, you've earned this. Take your time. Things open later in Japan than Australia, so you won't miss a lot if you have a little sleep in.
10am – Mermaid Coffee Roasters
Thick white toast with melted cheese, excellent mugs of Geisha coffee, and the kind of quiet morning atmosphere that makes you want to linger. This is the coffee you'll think about when you're back home.
11am – Tanukikoji Shopping Street
Wander down Tanukikoji Shopping Street, but don't just stick to the main arcade, the side streets are where you'll find the interesting stuff. If you absolutely must, now is the time for the Mega Don Quijote, though we'd argue your time is better spent elsewhere.
12pm – Hitorino Hair Spa or Beer Museum
Book a head spa treatment. I challenge you not to fall asleep. Hair Spas are popping up all over the world now, but there is something wonderful about the care and attention that is provided by this spa. If spas aren’t your style, you can head to Sapporo Beer Museum to discover the history of the famous Sapporo beer.
Toshi Hamburger
Sunday Afternoon
2pm – Toshi Hamburger
Try the freshly grated mountain wasabi (horseradish) with your grilled hamburger, which comes with a jug of slightly sweet jus, and roasted onions and potatoes on the side. And don’t sleep on the salad that comes at the start; it’s so delicious and a welcome shot of fresh veggies in a sea of Sapporo meat. Book in advance, this place fills up fast for good reason.
3pm – Back to Base
Return to your hotel for another onsen session. By now you'll understand why the Japanese are so devoted to these rituals of heat and water.
4pm – Coco Susukino
Walk over to Coco Susukino and explore. After you are done, head down to the basement food court. You'll want to see everything before you make your next decision.
5pm – Nemuro Hanamaru
Put your name down for conveyor belt sushi at Nemuro Hanamaru. Yes, more sushi. This is Hokkaido; the seafood is extraordinary and you're leaving tomorrow. The lines can be long here, but that’s ok as we have plans while we wait.
5:30pm – While You Wait: Nemoto Saketen
Have a sake flight (or two!) at Nemoto Saketen. The staff know their stuff, and you can buy bottles (tax-free) to take home. They also have an impressive whisky range if that's more your speed.
Sunday Evening
7pm – More Shopping
Choose your own shopping adventure: hit 2nd Street for second hand goods and the potential to find a bargain on a pe-loved designer handbag, or Mitsukoshi Department Store for some high-end final shopping.
9pm – Izakaya Hopping
Find an izakaya that looks inviting and go in. Don't overthink it. Start with a highball, order some small plates, and soak up the atmosphere. This is Sapporo at its most genuine, with locals unwinding, good drinks, and snacks.
11pm – Menya Yukikaze Susukino
Final meal: ramen and gyoza. Menya Yukikaze is open until 3am for exactly this reason. The ramen is rich, warming, and the perfect full stop to 38 hours of eating your way through Hokkaido's best city.
Ramen and Gyoza at Menya Yukikaze Susukino
Before You Go: Essential Tips
Tabelog Over Google
For restaurant reviews and ratings in Japan, Tabelog is your bible. Google reviews are fine, but Tabelog is what locals use.
Hire a Car
Essential for getting to the ski fields, but be aware that some parking lots are sized for Japanese kei cars. Your rental might not fit everywhere so check hotel parking specifications before booking your car.
Snow Boots Are Non-Negotiable
If you're visiting in winter, bring boots with grippy soles. Sapporo sidewalks are ice rinks masquerading as footpaths. Fashion boots will betray you, and sneakers will mean wet and cold feet.
Layer Like Your Life Depends On It
It's sweltering inside, freezing outside. Dress in layers you can peel off and put back on.
The Sandria Vending Machine
If you're at Sapporo Station and curious, there's a sandwich vending machine called Sandria that's become something of a legend. Is it life-changing? No. Is it a very Japanese experience? Absolutely.
The Sandria vending machine at Sapporo Station
Thirty-eight hours in Sapporo won't make you an expert, but it will make you a believer. This city rewards curiosity, appetite, and a willingness to embrace the cold. By Sunday night, as you're slurping your final bowl of ramen at midnight, you'll already be planning your next trip: one that's longer than 38 hours, and preferably happens very, very soon.
